Trad & Woke & Death with Sarah-Jane Dobner

Book, Climbing, News

Another short film! 20 minutes which seems to capture everything about days out on rock. Sandro Gromen-Hayes made it as part of his “Tales from the Wild” series. Here’s his intro: “A glorious day chatting and climbing with the one of my Bristol besties Sarah-Jane Dobner. From trad to poetry to privilege we explore various themes, highs and lows.” Sandro summited Everest a few weeks ago, which rather puts Whitt in Symonds Yat into perspective. His Instagram feed is a feast: https://www.instagram.com/sandro.g.h/?hl=en

Review of A Feeling in UKC

Climbing, News, Poetry

This was heartwarming. Ian Parnell published a lot of articles for me when he was editor of Climb magazine, for which I will ever be indebted. Everyone needs a champion and, early on, he championed me. One thing I love in this review is his tally of contents. I’d never counted up the parts of the book myself – as I can’t keep track of lengths in the swimming pool doing a slow breaststroke – but I really appreciate the rigour of it. Also my favourite line is: “One of the pleasures of reading this book is you rarely know what Dobner is going to come up with next.”

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/a_feeling_for_rock_by_sarah-jane_dobner-13463

Gogarth: A Gala Performance

Climbing, News, Performance, Poetry

Gogarth as the best theatre on earth. Poems and chunks of prose:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/gogarth_-_a_gala_performance-12183

West

Head West, always. As the Joad family in Grapes of Wrath or Otis in Dock of the Bay. Adventurers, pioneers and runaways. The dreamers and desperate. Years ago, hitch-hiking the deserts, flagged a ride with New Jersey kids jumping bail. Headed to California. Drive West. Leaving Llanberis, light rain closing in on the windscreen, peppering the glass. Not forecast. But there it is. Nature of the mountains. Keep driving. Roundabouts. A bridge, squat and self-promoting. Irksome to the island, one would think. Centuries of the Menai Straits thwarting casual visitors and conquerors. Drive over. Look at the state of the tide. You’ve checked online. But seeing it, the mud or gleaming water, confirms the iPhone’s information. Drive on. Through the town. Beyond all conurbations. Beyond fields and into heathland. Sea beyond the passenger seat. Sea ahead. Only sea, and the end of the track where the road runs out. The Western edge of Wales. Crumpled cliffs, high cliffs, red cliffs, yellow cliffs, mud cliffs, crystal cliffs, lichen cliffs, loose cliffs, clean cliffs. It’s all there. You can reinvent yourself, out West. Be whoever you like. Be who you are. Start again, each time, and hope for better results.

The Song of Bare Blåbær

Climbing, News, Poetry

Thanks to UKC for supporting poetry on World Poetry Day: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/poetry_-_song_of_bare_blabaer-11834


Foundations (Henningsvær)

The buildings amphibian
Half in water, half on land
Decks and jetties project into the
Salty tide

Kitchens dangle over water
Yachts and motorboats
Lashed alongside as
Fifty percent of the accommodation

Onshore, the structures
Teeter on frameworks of granite
Whilst seaward sections
Prop on top of

Seaweed-covered, rotting, wooden poles
And corroded metal piles
Listing and murmuring and dripping
Between each semi-diurnal dunking

And so the houses balance
On the edge of the sea, the edge of stone
Never quite belonging
Dwarfed by the mountains and the Arctic Ocean

Judge’s Special Mention

Climbing, News, Performance, Poetry

The Salty Dance Floor got a Highly Commended! Sat next to Sandro at SHAFF and it was fun and everyone was friendly and the panel was great. As is this ace quote from Niall Grimes, one of the three judges:

“I love it when people try to do something different. What made The Salty Dance Floor stand out for me was its attempt to express an emotion that I have felt as a climber…and it used the medium of film to not try to explain or verbalise this feeling, but to put the feeling across. What was the film saying? I have no idea, but I understood it”.